<\/p>\n
\n\tThe snow-carpeted industrial venue, the atmospheric soundtrack featuring \u00d3lafur Arnalds\u2019 \u201cFor Now I Am Winter\u201d and the contemplative pace of the models striding Shinya Kozuka\u2019s fall runway evoked a placid, almost melancholic vibe.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe Japanese designer brought a whiff of his home country\u2019s winters to Florence for his first European show as a guest designer of Pitti Uomo, referencing his night commute back home.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tBut what were the lone gloves punctuating the collection intended to tell the audience?<\/p>\n
\n\tVaried iterations of the winter accessory popped up here and there, hanging loose from the patch pocket of an apron, or accessorizing \u2014 in mitten-style versions accented with faux fur details \u2014 utilitarian ensembles with cropped, pocketed jackets and relaxed ankle-length pants.<\/p>\n
\n\tIn Kozuka\u2019s nonlinear storytelling they referenced the lone gloves he often sees abandoned on the sidewalks in Tokyo \u2014 familiar and comforting objects that remind him of people\u2019s journey back home, or, symbolically, a return to one\u2019s roots.<\/p>\n
\n\tIn a preview with WWD, Kozuka said his ambition for the Florence show was to \u201chighlight the fundamentals of the brand, the stronger components and avoid diluting them with too many elements. It\u2019s about showing my characteristics and my character.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThe collection zeroed in on his familiar tropes, heavy on layering and novel interpretations of the workwear suit, with some refreshing detours toward full-on utility and others leaning more on craft.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe show opened with melton topcoats and suits with elongated blazers featuring traces of snowstorms in the speckled white paint appearing on the bottom halves; of footprints left on blankets of snow, printed on a flocked cotton duster coat over a simple tracksuit; of the slush covering city streets evoked by the jacquard pattern on chunky knits and printed on a fluid pant and top combo paired with a short overskirt.<\/p>\n
\n\tReferences to utilitywear were scattered throughout \u2014 in a slightly elongated and multi-pocketed work jacket, a military-nodding bomber jacket and matching pants, and the numerous bib- or half-aprons layered over lean outfits including a simple shirt and culottes with voluminous pleats that gobbled up several yards of heavy cotton. Some of the aprons were splashed with a moody quote reading \u201cyouth is gone. Moon is there. Winter stands\u201d; others were done in inventive knitted versions.<\/p>\n
\n\tA coat bearing trompe l\u2019oeil prints of buttons and mother-of-pearl appliqu\u00e9s on the bottom half closed the show on a craft-intensive note.<\/p>\n
\n\tAs a runway performance, it stood out for the moody and poetic undertone, but the collection somehow missed in providing the international audience some clarity on Kozuka\u2019s core fashion vocabulary.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
The snow-carpeted industrial venue, the atmospheric soundtrack featuring \u00d3lafur Arnalds\u2019 \u201cFor Now I Am Winter\u201d and the contemplative pace of the models striding Shinya Kozuka\u2019s fall runway evoked a placid, almost melancholic vibe. The Japanese designer brought a whiff of his home country\u2019s winters to Florence for his first European show as a guest designer of Pitti Uomo, referencing his night commute back home.\u00a0 But what were the lone gloves punctuating the collection intended to tell the audience? Varied iterations of the winter accessory popped up here and there, hanging loose from the patch pocket of an apron, or accessorizing \u2014 in mitten-style versions accented with faux fur details \u2014 utilitarian ensembles with cropped, pocketed jackets and relaxed ankle-length pants. In Kozuka\u2019s nonlinear storytelling they referenced the lone gloves he often sees abandoned on the sidewalks in Tokyo \u2014 familiar and comforting objects that remind him of people\u2019s journey back home, or, symbolically, a return to one\u2019s roots. In a preview with WWD, Kozuka said his ambition for the Florence show was to \u201chighlight the fundamentals of the brand, the stronger components and avoid diluting them with too many elements. It\u2019s about showing my characteristics and my character.\u201d The collection zeroed in on his familiar tropes, heavy on layering and novel interpretations of the workwear suit, with some refreshing detours toward full-on utility and others leaning more on craft. The show opened with melton topcoats and suits with elongated blazers featuring traces of snowstorms in the speckled white paint appearing on the bottom halves; of footprints left on blankets of snow, printed on a flocked cotton duster coat over a simple tracksuit; of the slush covering city streets evoked by the jacquard pattern on chunky knits and printed on a fluid pant and top combo paired with a short overskirt. References to utilitywear were scattered throughout \u2014 in a slightly elongated and multi-pocketed work jack…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10720,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[2],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10719"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10719"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10719\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/10720"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10719"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10719"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10719"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}