<\/p>\n
\n\tPeople sometimes rib PR guru Lucien Pag\u00e8s for always wearing a pea coat during cold-weather fashion weeks. But on Tuesday night, he wore one by Saint Laurent and its sleek, elongated cut and light-absorbing black wool cast a different allure, free of any sailor associations and oozing that after-dark, smoky Saint Laurent vibe.<\/p>\n
\n\tAnthony Vaccarello\u2019s fall collection for the house cast a similar spell as his tall, slender models whisked over the chocolate brown carpet laid out at the Bourse de Commerce, their mostly black, tailored ensembles meekly lit with dusk-strength light. They looked mysterious, aloof, occasionally kinky, and very chic.<\/p>\n
\n\tThis was a masterclass in slyly sensual cutting, the sharp shoulders and suppressed waists of his X-shaped jackets seemingly more pronounced when the models were viewed from the back. Wraparound sunglasses and furry scarves wound up to the ears heightened the drama.<\/p>\n
\n\tVaccarello didn\u2019t stray far from this slender, sinuous silhouette, so the eye hunted for the subtle variations. Jackets and trousers in black wool crepe and grain de poudre <\/em>ultimately yielded to navy, gray and dark brown variations, with pinstripes, herringbone patterns and Prince of Wales checks nearly imperceptible.<\/p>\n \n\tPants were mostly full-legged and lapping over gleaming, square-toed dress shoes, but there were some skinny variations, too.<\/p>\n \n\tThis was an about-face from Vaccarello\u2019s color-drenched spring Saint Laurent collection, and so he played with texture and subtle contrast, cinching a black leather coat with a brown leather belt, and throwing in the odd brown sweater with a scooped neckline, into which he tucked a cravat.<\/p>\n \n\tBackstage in his dim interview lodge, Vaccarello explained that a summertime read of James Baldwin\u2019s 1956 novel \u201cGiovanni\u2019s Room\u201d \u2013 a tragic romance with a gay storyline \u2013 got him inspired, and thinking, \u201cWhat if I designed the costumes for the film?\u201d<\/p>\n \n\tIndeed, by teaming signposts of conservative attire \u2013 topcoats, neckties and banker stripes \u2013 with boxer shorts or latex leggings, he seemed to express the main character\u2019s internal conflict over his homosexuality.<\/p>\n \n\tVaccarello oversees the subsidiary of Saint Laurent that produces feature films, and he said he \u201cinvited the person who just bought the film rights\u201d for \u201cGiovanni\u2019s Room\u201d to take in Tuesday night\u2019s show. He hastened to add that \u201cit\u2019s not like I\u2019m making the film,\u201d though when asked if we would be interested, he replied, \u201cI think it\u2019s a great project.\u201d<\/p>\n \n\tWith Canadian TV show \u201cHeated Rivalry\u201d \u2013 about a secret love story between hockey players \u2013 dominating the cultural conversation, and its stars Connor Storrie and Fran\u00e7ois Arnaud sitting in Saint Laurent\u2019s front row, perhaps the time is right for Baldwin\u2019s painful coming-out tale to finally make it to the big screen \u2013 along with some of Vaccarello\u2019s fine and sexy threads.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" People sometimes rib PR guru Lucien Pag\u00e8s for always wearing a pea coat during cold-weather fashion weeks. But on Tuesday night, he wore one by Saint Laurent and its sleek, elongated cut and light-absorbing black wool cast a different allure, free of any sailor associations and oozing that after-dark, smoky Saint Laurent vibe. Anthony Vaccarello\u2019s fall collection for the house cast a similar spell as his tall, slender models whisked over the chocolate brown carpet laid out at the Bourse de Commerce, their mostly black, tailored ensembles meekly lit with dusk-strength light. They looked mysterious, aloof, occasionally kinky, and very chic. This was a masterclass in slyly sensual cutting, the sharp shoulders and suppressed waists of his X-shaped jackets seemingly more pronounced when the models were viewed from the back. Wraparound sunglasses and furry scarves wound up to the ears heightened the drama. Vaccarello didn\u2019t stray far from this slender, sinuous silhouette, so the eye hunted for the subtle variations. Jackets and trousers in black wool crepe and grain de poudre ultimately yielded to navy, gray and dark brown variations, with pinstripes, herringbone patterns and Prince of Wales checks nearly imperceptible. Pants were mostly full-legged and lapping over gleaming, square-toed dress shoes, but there were some skinny variations, too. This was an about-face from Vaccarello\u2019s color-drenched spring Saint Laurent collection, and so he played with texture and subtle contrast, cinching a black leather coat with a brown leather belt, and throwing in the odd brown sweater with a scooped neckline, into which he tucked a cravat. Backstage in his dim interview lodge, Vaccarello explained that a summertime read of James Baldwin\u2019s 1956 novel \u201cGiovanni\u2019s Room\u201d \u2013 a tragic romance with a gay storyline \u2013 got him inspired, and thinking, \u201cWhat if I designed the costumes for the film?\u201d Indeed, by teaming signposts of conservative attire \u2013 topcoats, neckties and banker stripes \u2013 wit…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":11326,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[2],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11325"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=11325"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/11325\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/11326"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=11325"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=11325"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=11325"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}