<\/p>\n
\n\tWhen he was in the U.K. for a Net-a-porter party last November, Julien Dossena spent some time hunting for vintage tea dresses, one of his fashion obsessions. Judging from his fall runway, he struck gold at Portobello Market and the vintage shops of Brighton.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe 1940s styles were all over the Rabanne runway, paved with sequins, jangling with metal embellishment, sprinkled with crystals and layered over, or under, colorful knits.<\/p>\n
\n\tDossena likes the idea of contrasts, of loose-fitting, old-fashioned, everyday dresses glammed up with print and shine, paired with jacquard sweaters (a big trend on the Paris runways this season) that could have been knitted at home.<\/p>\n
\n\tThose dizzying contrasts had a distinctive punk feel, especially when Dossena rolled out the checks. He slipped oversize plaid jackets in classic men\u2019s fabrics over those shiny skirts and dresses, sent out wide, pleat-front Zoot suit trousers and trenches, some with two-tone furry collars.<\/p>\n
\n\tHe punked it up even more with cartoonish color and texture combinations, bright blue fur for the collar of a burgundy trench or highlighter pink for a brown jacket. The tea dresses turned punk, with skirts dissolving into swooshing thick fringe or metal mesh, while blazers came with oversize metal grommets like big piercings.<\/p>\n
\n\tDossena relished the moment. Not only was he able to subvert the look of his beloved tea dresses, he also set out to make a fashion statement. <\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cLuxury feels so conservative nowadays, and the last thing I want to do is live in this fashion bubble,\u201d he said. \u201cI think as a designer you have to address the moment, and your designs have to reflect something.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tHe also likes the idea of his looks being unpolished \u2014 and free \u2014 and embracing the darkness and chaos of the moment. The designer said he just moved house and now lives around the Gare du Nord, and his new neighborhood was an inspiration.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cYou see people walking around with a nonchalance, and they have a way of mixing things together that suits their own style. I like that approach \u2014 something a bit louche, good and bad taste side-by-side. I wanted to push that idea to the edge.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThere\u2019s another reason he took a punk route: \u201cI don\u2019t know any women who are polished \u2014 my clients are working, they\u2019re mothers, wives, daughters and they\u2019re busy. I\u2019m designing for them,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
When he was in the U.K. for a Net-a-porter party last November, Julien Dossena spent some time hunting for vintage tea dresses, one of his fashion obsessions. Judging from his fall runway, he struck gold at Portobello Market and the vintage shops of Brighton. The 1940s styles were all over the Rabanne runway, paved with sequins, jangling with metal embellishment, sprinkled with crystals and layered over, or under, colorful knits. Dossena likes the idea of contrasts, of loose-fitting, old-fashioned, everyday dresses glammed up with print and shine, paired with jacquard sweaters (a big trend on the Paris runways this season) that could have been knitted at home. Those dizzying contrasts had a distinctive punk feel, especially when Dossena rolled out the checks. He slipped oversize plaid jackets in classic men\u2019s fabrics over those shiny skirts and dresses, sent out wide, pleat-front Zoot suit trousers and trenches, some with two-tone furry collars. He punked it up even more with cartoonish color and texture combinations, bright blue fur for the collar of a burgundy trench or highlighter pink for a brown jacket. The tea dresses turned punk, with skirts dissolving into swooshing thick fringe or metal mesh, while blazers came with oversize metal grommets like big piercings. Dossena relished the moment. Not only was he able to subvert the look of his beloved tea dresses, he also set out to make a fashion statement. \u201cLuxury feels so conservative nowadays, and the last thing I want to do is live in this fashion bubble,\u201d he said. \u201cI think as a designer you have to address the moment, and your designs have to reflect something.\u201d He also likes the idea of his looks being unpolished \u2014 and free \u2014 and embracing the darkness and chaos of the moment. The designer said he just moved house and now lives around the Gare du Nord, and his new neighborhood was an inspiration. \u201cYou see people walking around with a nonchalance, and they have a way of mixing things together that suits their …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12936,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[2],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12935"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=12935"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12935\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/12936"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=12935"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=12935"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=12935"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}