<\/p>\n
\n\tStaging his third show as artistic director of Celine, Michael Rider has crystallized his fashion sweet spot as classics \u201cwith bite.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tIt\u2019s a trenchant way to sum up his magnificent clothes, which are familiar, often sober and sometimes austere \u2013 but sharpened or disrupted, so a tailored jacket or slim pants might flare out in a slightly gawky way, or the gold buttons on a jacket or coat might seem abnormally small, but there\u2019s something cool about that.<\/p>\n
\n\tTo be sure, this collection was more dressed-up and styled to a T: from the demonstrative derby and bucket hats on down to the squishy plimsolls or kitten-heel granny boots, often in white \u2013 outr\u00e9 for fall.<\/p>\n
\n\tRider also concentrated on slimmer silhouettes because it \u201cjust felt fresh,\u201d he said backstage, adding his voice to a chorus of leading designers advocating for sleeker shapes come fall.<\/p>\n
\n\tAs for his flared flood pants \u2013 whether in dark dressy wools, or plush, brightly colored fabrics \u2013 he said they \u201cfelt kicky.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tThe venue was a giant wooden box tucked in a courtyard behind the Institut de France. It sheltered a bright, attic-like space appointed with imposing wood and steel speakers by Mat\u00e9o Garcia Audio that would later pump out live recordings of Prince, The West Coast Pop Art Experimental Band, and Pastor T.L. Barrett and The Youth for Christ Orchestra, which heightened the groovy \u201970s vibe percolating through some of the clothes.<\/p>\n
\n\tRider was trying to evoke a jam session, as something similar happens in the Celine studio.<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cSometimes putting the collection together, everybody\u2019s riffing on each other,\u201d he told a small group of reporters. \u201cThere is something about the way that we work that\u2019s very collaborative, and that can sometimes feel like a bunch of people who get together and make music.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\tAnother topic of conversation in the design department was \u201cthe complex, slightly messier inner lives of the people under beautiful clothes.\u201d<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cIt was a nice place to begin. We talked a lot about that,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n
\n\tHowever, none of his runway characters seemed to be coming undone, though some hugged padded silk scarves like a child might a stuffed animal, or wound a stiffened silk scarf so far up the neck they obscured much of the face.<\/p>\n
\n\tRider famously worked under Phoebe Philo at Celine, and all the white satin on display had an echo of her influential spring 2013 collection, though buffed to a much higher polish. Swags of the glossy fabric, or simple tunics demarcated with bows, were a nice alternative for evening.<\/p>\n
\n\tHe also sparked his collection with unexpected bursts \u2013 make that bites \u2013 of color, pattern, logos and embellishments.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Staging his third show as artistic director of Celine, Michael Rider has crystallized his fashion sweet spot as classics \u201cwith bite.\u201d It\u2019s a trenchant way to sum up his magnificent clothes, which are familiar, often sober and sometimes austere \u2013 but sharpened or disrupted, so a tailored jacket or slim pants might flare out in a slightly gawky way, or the gold buttons on a jacket or coat might seem abnormally small, but there\u2019s something cool about that. To be sure, this collection was more dressed-up and styled to a T: from the demonstrative derby and bucket hats on down to the squishy plimsolls or kitten-heel granny boots, often in white \u2013 outr\u00e9 for fall. Rider also concentrated on slimmer silhouettes because it \u201cjust felt fresh,\u201d he said backstage, adding his voice to a chorus of leading designers advocating for sleeker shapes come fall. As for his flared flood pants \u2013 whether in dark dressy wools, or plush, brightly colored fabrics \u2013 he said they \u201cfelt kicky.\u201d The venue was a giant wooden box tucked in a courtyard behind the Institut de France. It sheltered a bright, attic-like space appointed with imposing wood and steel speakers by Mat\u00e9o Garcia Audio that would later pump out live recordings of Prince, The West Coast Pop Art Experimental Band, and Pastor T.L. Barrett and The Youth for Christ Orchestra, which heightened the groovy \u201970s vibe percolating through some of the clothes. Rider was trying to evoke a jam session, as something similar happens in the Celine studio. \u201cSometimes putting the collection together, everybody\u2019s riffing on each other,\u201d he told a small group of reporters. \u201cThere is something about the way that we work that\u2019s very collaborative, and that can sometimes feel like a bunch of people who get together and make music.\u201d Another topic of conversation in the design department was \u201cthe complex, slightly messier inner lives of the people under beautiful clothes.\u201d \u201cIt was a nice place to begin. We talked a lot about that,\u201d he said. However, none …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":13022,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[2],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13021"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13021"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13021\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/13022"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13021"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13021"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seekyourlove.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13021"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}