Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2026: Color Me Beautiful

Willy Chavarria has a lot to say — about fashion, footwear and politics — and he’s not holding back.

It was the second time the designer showed in Paris, following his 10^th anniversary event earlier this year, and his show at the Salle Pleyel was certainly an emotional rollercoaster.

Called “Huron,” after the rural town in California’s San Joaquin Valley where he was born, it began with a tableau of models dressed in long white T-shirts and shorts, and patent leather slip-on shoes, kneeling on the runway, with their heads bent low.   

They stayed there, silently and submissively, as if they were about to be deported, U.S. government-style, while the soundtrack blasted out Jose Feliciano’s iconic take on the song “California Dreamin.’” The irony wasn’t lost on anyone.

Then the mood changed, and Chavarria flashed his showman’s side with a collection that was bursting with color inspired by the images of Guy Bourdin, whose photography he’s been thinking a lot about lately.

In a bid to raise his growing international profile, Chavarria has inked a deal with Charles Jourdan, reworking men’s and women’s styles from the brand’s archive. He’s also been spending time with Bourdin’s ad campaigns for the French brand, which were famously filled with bright, saturated color and surreal imagery.

That statement color seeped straight into the spring 2026 collection, which had more womenswear than ever before.

“My head of design, Rebeca Mendoza, is helping me define womenswear, and making sure that it always comes from a female perspective, because that’s important,” said the designer.

Chavarria’s women — sporting delightfully bourgeois bouffant hairstyles, and wide-brimmed hats, some adorned with silk roses — strutted like peacocks down the red runway in curvy shirtdresses with pointy collars, structured satin trenches and jackets with puffed-up power shoulders.

Looks came in hot red and yellow, cooling mint green and sweet candy pink, and those colors weren’t just for the ladies.

Chavarria’s men stepped out in those Bourdain brights, too, although their clothes had a preppy edge — with a big dose of dandy.

It’s safe to say his long jackets, wide-leg chinos and XL shorts might not make it past reception at the country club, but who cares? And who doesn’t want an oversized shorts suit — or a soft, flowing evening gown — in hot pink cloque shot through with gold thread?

“We’re sending an overall message of hope and positivity,” said the designer, who kept his feel-good looks flowing, from the sleek tailored evening jackets with contrast satin lapels to the off-the-shoulder gowns in candy wrapper colors with sleeves as big as cream puffs.

It’s clear that this proud American, with Mexican and Irish roots, is eager to embrace so many different cultures, and weave their colors and textures into his own work.

“My goal is to make the most beautiful fashion in the world, and part of that includes making a beautiful soundtrack, and offering a beautiful message to humanity,” said the designer, whose show unfurled to the sound of Spanish-language songs, and live guitar music.

“Showing in Paris really helps to provide that platform because it’s such a loud megaphone to the world for fashion. I love Paris — and I’m expanding in Europe,” said the designer, who took his bow in a cobalt blue suit made from light, crinkly cotton.

“The cotton feels incredible — like you’re wearing a FedEx envelope,” said Chavarria, who was going straight back to work the next day.

“We do our sales in Paris, too, so tomorrow morning, I’ll be in the showroom, slinging my s—t,” said Chavarria, whose language is just as colorful as his fashion.