Litkovska Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Runway, Fashion Show & Collection Review

In Ukraine, Oct. 1 is Defenders Day, a public holiday honoring veterans and fallen soldiers since 2015. By staging her Paris presentation that day, Lilia Litkovska once again used her voice to speak out about the ongoing war in her homeland.

Litkovska’s backdrop was an installation made from camouflage netting, dyed in a vivid pink for the occasion to highlight soldiers’ bravery and explore the balance between visibility and invisibility, courage and vulnerability.

The collection also homed in on the juxtaposition between sharp masculinity and feminine softness with which Litkovska likes to play, which was even more apparent this season. Inspired by an exhibition of art brut and what she described as its “raw sincerity,” she incorporated floral embroideries into delicate plastron dresses, tone on tone or in vivid red, and created bold floral jewelry from unglazed clay. Tailored looks had sheer muslin panels at the sides, softening the silhouette, or looked to be torn apart and draped back together in her multifunctional designs. Delicate negligées were worn as skirts layered over pants, their straps dangling. Harsher elements referenced military apparel with cape-like jackets that billowed like parachutes, jersey panels punctuating their lines.

The presentation was set to a performance combining music and poetry by musician and composer Yuri Khustochka and writer and singer Irena Karpa, both friends of the designer.